features

Edgar Doctorow sits at a nearby table but he is busy reading The Guardian. Elena is feeling a bit ill and tired. This trip is supposed to be a restful vacation for her. Sasha excuses himself, disappears for a few minutes and returns with various medicines. I learn that Teri is expecting the arrival of a new family member in September. She looks great and I tell her so. The positive aspect of attending any conference is the friendships that develop. Here at the breakfast table are three perfect examples.

There is a 10 o’clock press conference. First, check e-mail and PJ lets me know that he has received another blog and that it is up on the Prague Writers’ Festival web site. Also receive a message from Neelima Mathur in New Delhi; she and her husband, Pramod, plan to attend a Sunday dinner the 1st of July and will stay one night in Paris. I fire off a quick reply and tell them that I expect them to stay in my atelier.

Up to my room for one minute and get a call from Steven Gove. He will pass in the afternoon. Downstairs for the press conference. On the panel: Michael March, Jindra Dvorakova, Edgar Doctorow, Elena Stefoi, and James Meek. Hannah arrives and sits next to me. Vlasta arrives and gives me a soft caress on my cheek. The press conferences are always interesting and amusing. Learn a lot about the three writers. James Meek talks about his years in Kiev and in Moscow. Learn that Doctorow’s grandparents were Russians. Elena talks about how she became a diplomat. And once again Jindra does an excellent job, moving rapidly from English to Czech and then back to English once again. When the conference ends, give her my congratulations.

Upstairs, before we head for lunch at the American Ambassador’s residence, talk with Helen Doctorow. Learn that she and Edgar have a home in Sag Harbor, Long Island. This leads to my asking if she has read Alan Furst. She says she has and that she is a fan. I confess to also being a fan. He is, also, a friend of mine and that I have followed his career since our first meeting in Paris almost twenty years ago. She knows that he lives in Sag Harbor. We talk about Alan’s books. And then it is time to go to lunch. Ride to the American Ambassador’s residence with Vlasta and with Helen and Edgar Doctorow.

We are welcomed at the American Embassy residence by the Ambassador, Richard Graber, by Michael Hahn, who handles Press and Culture, and by Michael Feldman, who is the Cultural Attaché. The embassy residence is over the top. Very beautiful. A small palace. It’s too much for me, But I can guess others might find it just their cup of tea.. The Ambassador gives us some words of welcome. And tells us the history of the building. Then he asks Michael March to say a few words and I must say I am very proud of Michael because he gives an excellent short talk, comparing the U.S. Constitution, not only to literature, but as a code that protects American citizens. Bravo, Michael! Then we are invited to help ourselves to a table over-flowing with delicious things to eat. I see the Israeli Ambassador, Arie Arazi, and his wife, Ruth, and thank them again for their hospitality on Monday. Also spot Ivana Bozdechova and we exchange smiles and news. Sit with Michal Prochazka and we talk about the festival and how much fun it is. Ivana and I go for coffee and sit on a couch with Helena Stehlikova, who is the Press Assistant in the American Embassy in Prague, and with Paula Holotnakova, who is the Press Assistant in the American Embassy in Bratsilava. Helena offers to show me the view of Prague from the Embassy that is supposed to be extremely breath-taking. I thank her and tell her maybe next year, that I am leaving Prague tomorrow and that there is just not enough time.

I meet the Dutch Ambassador, Jan Lucas van Hoorn, who will be our host tonight. He and I speak briefly of Amsterdam. Tell him that I once had lunch with Prince Bernhard thanks to my friendship with Will Sandberg, the Director of the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam. I give him a leaflet about the Sunday night dinners in Paris and we speak briefly about Paris. He tells me that he might like to attend in July. Also chat briefly with the Swedish Ambassador, Catherine von Heidenstam. What a lovely lady she is!

Jindra Dvorakova and I share a taxi into Prague. We also offer Ivana a ride, but she says she will take a metro. She is also off to the countryside, so will not see her again this trip. Life certainly flies by quickly. Give Jindra a copy of Workers in our ride to the Hotel Josef.

Inside check e-mail and print out several copies of Monday’s blog. Edgar Doctorow enters the Media Center to check his e-mail. Give him a copy of Monday’s blog.

Upstairs in my room. Meet Olga, the attractive young woman who is cleaning it every morning. We exchange smiles and I thank her. Lie on the bed and watch Roland-Garros for a few minutes.

Go downstairs to the lobby and sit with Helen Doctorow. She has just ordered an ice cream and I tell the young waiter that I would like one as well. Helen tells me that Edgar’s sister-in-law is ill and that they might have to cut short their travels in Europe and fly to America. Steven Gove arrives and I introduce him to Michael March and to others. His Prague Fringe Theatre Festival has just ended and he reports it has been a big success. Helen excuses herself to get ready for the next event. And treats me to our ice cream. Thanks, Helen. The next one is my treat in Paris!

There is an event in the Municipal Library at 17.00, a Guardian conversation entitled “The Lost Art of Czech Dada” with Tom Sandqvist, Adrian Notz, Ludvik, and Jindrich Toman. And at the same time in the new American Center, there is a talk, “The Pain of Others” – attributed to Susan Sontag – with Gary Snyder, E.L Doctorow, and Aleksandar Hemon. I would like to attend both sessions. In the end I pile into the large van with Michael March, Teri and Sasha Hemon, Helen and Edgar Doctorow, Steven Gore, and Markéta Kolarova, from the Office of Public Affairs in the American Embassy. We drive through crowded streets to the other side of the river. Steven cannot stay for the reading because he is cooking dinner for his mother and a few friends tonight.

Once again it is a stimulating conversation that is animated by a fellow called Richard Olehla.

Afterwards I walk across the Charles Bridge. It has suddenly become very warm. Make my way slowly to the Hotel Josef. Go to the Media Center and write most of Tuesday blog. Then ask the hotel staff to get a car for me to get to the Theatre Minor. Arrive at an interval. I have missed Elena Stefoi and Aleksandar Hemon’s readings. Damn. But the last literary event of the Festival is Edgar Doctorow’s reading from his new book, The March. And then Michael March interviews Edgar. It is a great finale. A superb reading. And a zen-ish/dada-ish interview...

Talk with lots of people including Martin Belk. Martin has journeyed to Prague from Edinburgh. He shot an interview with John Calder and myself at the last Edinburgh Festival. And this coming August, he wishes to do something again. I have promised to participate.

Teri, Sasha, and I sit in the back on a taxi. In the front seat is a woman whose name I have forgotten. Silly me. She is a Czech writer and also writes song lyrics. We speed to the Dutch Ambassador’s residence. It is also a delight finale. We all three like the house. It has a warm feeling about it. I have the feeling that I have been in it before, Jan Lucas van Hoorn and his wife, Catherine, welcome us.

I am one of the first to have a plate full of food. I am ordered to start by the Ambassador’s wife. I learn that she is from France, and she met her future husband, I seem to remember, in Holland. Her Dutch is delightful to the ears. He studied some years at N.Y.U. in New York. I tell Catherine that there is a woman here from France, Paul Kahn’s wife, Dominique. Soon the two of them are chatting away in French.

I introduce myself to two attractive young women. One of them, Zuzana Skalicka, is the Assistant Manager for Press and Cultural Affairs. The other one, Jitka Taberyova, is studying literature at Brno University. Zuzana and Jitka have been friends since early childhood. They are a bit sad because they wanted to talk with Arnon Grunberg and Edgar Doctorow and were too shy to approach them. Now it is too late. Both have departed.

The Czech surreal poet, Pavel Reznicek, gives me one of his poems. It is called Well and the first two lines are “No I will not work/I don’t feel like work…” I must get him a copy of my anti-work manifesto, Workers of the World, Unite and Stop Working!

Time to thank the hosts and head back into Prague. Hannah calls a taxi for Teri, Sasha and yours truly. Soon we are speeding toward the Hotel Josef. And it is soon all over. Only another night’s sleep, another breakfast feast, and farewells to everyone tomorrow morning.